Here’s Donna’s review of an amazing week in Scotland riding the North Coast 500 tourist route around the highlands over 5 and a half days.
I’m not really sure how the whole NC500 trip came about.
I remember Jon talking about wanting to do the trip…..obviously not mentioning that the idea was to cycle the 500 miles! There were a few mentions of how beautiful that part of Scotland was and then an NC500 guide book appeared as one of my Christmas presents and after looking through that I agreed, it did look beautiful, and yes, I would like to do an NC500 trip too. Still no mention of having to cycle it.
Over the coming weeks it emerged that there were a group of people doing the trip and the plan was to cycle the route.
There would be support vans and the idea was to stay in Youth Hostels along the route at the end point of each day. I was assured that I could do as little or as much of the cycling as I wanted to and upon doing my research I found out that the 500 miles could indeed be cycled with a good level of fitness…..the recommendation was to do it over 14 days. The plan was for us to do it in 6! It was then that I started to worry, I’m an okay cyclist but my longest ride was only 75 miles. I hadn’t really done any back to back long rides and I had never done a century ride. The reality of cycling 500 miles over 6 days seemed impossible, but once again I was assured I could do as little or as much as I wanted and I relaxed, thinking of all the sight seeing, hiking and maybe even swimming I could get in whilst the rest of the group were cycling. It was at this point that I was finally added to the NC500 whatsapp group, Jon had been too afraid to do it earlier in case I backed out. It also emerged at this point that deposits had been paid and accommodation booked, so I really was “in”.
I upped my bike training, fitting in regular zwift sessions and longer weekend rides incorporating what I thought were ‘big’ hills. I did some hilly routes around Heswall trying to build some strength in my legs to tackle what I knew would be the hardest rides I had attempted by far. A couple of weekends before the trip a group ride of 100 miles was planned so we could get to know each other a bit better and for those who hadn’t done one before (me) to get a century ride under their belts. This long ride covered a distance of 101 miles and included 7,300 ft of climb, a great indication of the days that were to come. I felt strong on this ride but found getting up and cycling the following day was really hard. Apart from the pain of sitting on the saddle, as soon as we hit any slight inclines my legs were in bits, I felt like I had nothing to give. Six consecutive days seemed literally out of the question. But it was okay, because I was only doing half days…..right??
An early start on the 3rd of May saw us meeting as a group in New Brighton. The bikes and bags were loaded into one van and the people split into two others. We had a mix of cyclists, drivers and support crew. A few others were joining us in their own camper vans including Gail and Steve. Gail and Steve were splitting the cycling so they each got to do half a day, one cycling and the other driving their van. My plan was to also do some half days and spend the rest of the day sightseeing with Gail. Funny how things turn out differently to what we plan.
Day 1: Inverness to Ratagan. 75 miles and 5,000ft of elevation
The first day was like a dream ride. Up at 6.30am and leaving Inverness by 8.30 we gathered in front of the castle for a quick team photograph before setting off on our journey. City streets soon turned into countryside roads and views of Loch Ness that made you forget you were even cycling. We stopped for lunch in Fort Augustus after about 33 miles before continuing on the second part of the days journey to Ratagan. The latter part of the ride saw some steep climbs that rewarded us with amazing views and fast descents. I managed to clock my fastest speed to date, 40mph! We passed Eilean Donan Castle which has featured in the films Highlander and James Bond, The World is not Enough. Long smooth roads winding alongside mirror like lakes and surrounded by rolling mountains made the ride a joy and soon enough after 8 hours cycling, we entered into Ratagan YH, our stop for the night. Even the Youth Hostel was beautiful, set on the shores of a beautiful lake. The swimmers amongst us (not me) made the most of it by going in for a dip, I managed to wade in up to my thighs knowing the cold water would do my legs the world of good for the following days ride. Dinner at a local café and an early night saw the end of an amazing first day.
Day 2: Ratagan to Torridon. 89 miles and 8,500ft of climb
Day 2 was the day I had not so secretly been dreading as the biggest climb of the entire trip was on this day. Up at 6.30am and departing at 8am, we set off on our way, thoughts of the ‘big climb’ on everyone’s minds. Bealach na Ba, 2053ft high, 5 miles of single track road with gradients of 1 in 5 and hair pin bends. My stomach wasn’t great at all at the start of the ride, lots of gels and extra food hadn’t really agreed with me. A few emergency stops were needed and these were stressful enough in themselves as there are virtually no toilets. I was more than willing to pay £5 to a local café for a hot chocolate that I didn’t drink just so I could use the facilities! Lots of smaller but still significant climbs scattered the first half of the ride, one in particular saw the elevation climb to 21% and I struggled to control my breathing. Encouraging, calm words from Jon kept me going to the top but my legs were left shaking and exhausted. A quick fuel and drink stop and a pep talk from Liam saw us continue on our way to the famous Bealach na Ba. 
Pictures in front of the signs at the bottom, a few hugs and ‘good luck’s’ and the group began the climb. We were quickly separated, each needing to go at our own speed. I was bringing up the rear with Col and Kev and we supported each other up the never ending single track road, stopping at passing places to catch our breath and drink and refuel as needed. At the steepest point I was zig zagging across either side of the road to avoid having to get off and walk. I was so determined that I would do this. The noise of car and motorbike engines behind you and the sight of traffic coming down in front of you was pretty stressful on 
the narrow road and as we finally approached the summit, it was a sight for sore eyes to see Jon and Ian coming back down to check we were okay. Ian had music blasting out of a speaker on his bike and we rolled into the trig point to the sounds of the Venga bus. It was the closest thing to a red carpet rollout that I’ll ever get to experience. Everyone was dancing and rushing over to hug us and I’m not ashamed to say that my eyes leaked a little…..and it wasn’t the only time on the trip that this would happen. A quick re-group and then the delightful descent into Applecross where we had an amazing lunch at the side of the lake. After such a massive climb my 
legs were really suffering. I was okay on the flat, just turning the pedals, but unfortunately, not much of the route was flat! My quads were burning on every climb and it was a struggle to finish. After a long day of just under 11.5 hours we finally reached Torridon youth hostel with very tired legs. With only a men’s dormitory available in the YHA we then had to put up a tent for the ladies before having a late meal of chicken curry and rice prepared for us by Judi. I was so thankful to get into my sleeping bag and quickly fell into a restless sleep.
Day 3: Torridon to Ullapool 85 miles, 5,100ft of climb
Up at 6am for another early start to pack away the tent and have some breakfast before setting off on the days adventures. My legs were really feeling it today and in my mind, today was going to be my first half day. My bottom was really sore from the amount of time spent on the saddle so I had the bright idea of putting 2 pairs of cycling shorts on to get double the padding. BIG mistake. This only led to friction and burning as the two pairs of shorts moved inside of each other. The first part of the ride was on a flat, smooth road and the miles ticked by quickly. We picked Gail up from the camp site where she had been staying and continued to ride. I mentioned to Jon that I was doing a half day and not surprisingly I was met with a nonchalant ‘see how you go’ response. I’m not actually sure whether he was just paying me lip service or whether he obviously knows me better than I know myself and just humours me because he knows that I won’t give up unless I absolutely have to. Anyway the flat start was great for warming up my tired legs and I found myself ticking off the climbs, one by one without too much difficulty. As the ride progressed I was feeling stronger and an amazing hot chocolate and huge slab of rocky road at Gairloch museum jet fuelled the second part of the journey. You get some idea of how far into the wilderness you are when your Garmin says to turn left in 65 miles! After the longest, unsheltered road in the middle of nowhere with rolling hills each of them several miles long and lots of rain, I was glad to have a quick fuel stop sheltering in a bus stop and then begin to ride the last 12 miles into Ullapool. 
Amazingly I still felt strong and was looking forward to fish and chips for my tea that night. 3 miles from the hostel cycling up a busy road, I could hear the grind of an engine lorry behind us. He couldn’t pass as the group had drifted apart a little and was too spaced out for the traffic to overtake. Jon shouted from behind to try and close the gap so myself and Kev in front of me both surged forward. Unfortunately my front wheel clipped Kev’s back wheel and I was unable to stop myself from falling into the road….in front of the lorry. Luckily he saw me, stopped for a second and then drove around me. I landed on my sore hip which wasn’t ideal but could have been much worse so was grateful for that. After 9 hours the ride got finished, bikes were packed away, showers were had and then a lovely meal in Ullapool finished off what was a really good day.
Day 4: Ullapool to Durness 93 miles and 8,130 ft of climb
A better nights sleep in a shared dorm of 5 was the good start to the day that I desperately needed. Unfortunately the ride start was delayed as a member of our cycling team was unwell and had to be taken by ambulance to Inverness hospital. We finally set off and almost immediately hit the first climb of the day, a lovely 18%. Legs were totally unprepared and I struggled to get to the top. I looked down at my Garmin and was horrified to see that it was the first of 27 climbs. That first climb pretty much set the scene for the rest of the day, hill after hill, climb after climb. It was relentless. The route was very coastal and the wind really strong. The previous 3 days rides were in my legs and I really struggled both mentally and physically to get through this mammoth day. I had pain in my hip from the previous days fall so I dropped to my lowest gear and just concentrated on turning the legs, trying to grind through the hills. Some, I was grateful to feel a helping hand in the small of my back from Stu, others 
I had to admit defeat and walk some of the steeper sections, getting back on when I could. A visit to a pie shop for lunch was much needed and then a quick stop at the stunning Achmelvich beach cheered me up slightly. Funnily enough, as much as I was struggling, the thought of doing a half day never even crossed my mind. 3 previous hard days meant I had broken the back of it and I was determined I wouldn’t fall at the final hurdle. The amazing sight of the Kylesku bridge at about 73 miles and a photo opportunity lifted my spirits slightly. Last 20 miles, I could do this. Another particularly long and steep hill loomed and the struggle became all too real again. The group had split, the stronger hill riders out in front.
My legs were burning, the wind was head on, my hip was hurting and before I knew what was happening I was sobbing, still turning the legs trying to reach the top of the hill. Jon was in front of me offering some protection from the wind and pointed out that the group were waiting at the top. I wiped my tears determined not to let them see me cry. Waste of time, Liam saw my face, asked me if I was okay and I just broke down sobbing. A much needed hug and the organisation of two groups staying together with stronger riders leading the pack got me through those final miles. I was in a dark place. The sun was going down, the temperatures had dropped and my bike was actually shaking whilst riding as my body shivered. I have never been so happy to get off my bike in all my life. It was 9pm when we finally rode into Durness, we had been out for over 12 hours. The support team quickly saw the state I was in, got me off my bike, wrapped me in a dry robe and shepherded me into the hostel. I was given a hot water bottle, wrapped in a duvet and handed a plate of chilli and rice, garlic bread and a hot cup of coffee. I have never felt so cared for, it actually still brings tears to my eyes how I was looked after that day. After a quick de-brief, a shower and straight to bed for me. The longest day yet in terms of mileage was still to come.
Day 5: Durness to Alness 104 miles 5,630ft of climb
A night in an eight bed dorm meant another restless, broken sleep. My mind also constantly replaying the events of the day before. How could I possibly even think about riding again, the longest distance yet. I went for breakfast and ate as much granola and jam on toast that I could and got myself ready for the day. Todays route covered 119 miles but when checking the Garmin I was pleased to see that there were only 10 hills. Only 10 hills, I don’t even recognise this person that I have become! Tyres checked, chains oiled and by 7.30am we had set off for the day. Again pretty much straight into the first hill and the all too familiar burn of the legs began. I can do this. 
The miles and the hills seemed to race by today. It was pretty remote and there was just one long continuous road stretching out for miles. It was very open and windy and Gail soon took charge of the group swapping the strong riders at the front and everyone else falling in behind. This strategy really worked and we were making good progress, some great downhill sections also ate into the miles. Jon was laughing as he waited at a turn at the bottom of one of the downhills to see me speeding down, grinning like a cheshire cat. I just love a downhill! The rain soon set in but everyone was in good spirits, I actually felt pretty strong. We had a quick fuel stop at Grunmore beach at 56 miles but had booked in for a main lunch stop in Lairg at 80 miles and the thought of all that lovely hot food helped to carry us along. It was late afternoon when we arrived at the café and we were pretty wet. Coming back out into the rain with full stomachs was a test in itself and we questioned whether to finish at 100miles and add an extra 20 onto the last day. We decided to just get it done and set off 
again with plans for another quick stop with the support vans at 101 miles. Stop done and we set off on route once again, just 18 miles until we reached our hotel, the first proper hotel we had stayed in on the trip. The route took us off the main A road and onto a cycle path. This path was extremely muddy, steep with running water and littered with stones and branches. We decided it was safer to turn back and continue on the main road. Coming off the cycle path and back onto the road, I cycled through what I thought was just surface water, turned out it was a really deep pot hole filled with rain water. My front wheel disappeared into the hole and my back wheel shot into the air, throwing me over the handlebars and onto the road. I landed heavily on my hands, hurting my wrists and shoulder. Even worse than that, I had snapped the derailleur hanger on my bike. There was no chance that I could continue so we made the decision to call the rescue van and get me picked up, Jon came with me to check I was okay and the rest of the group continued on with the ride. Disappointed but glad to be relatively unhurt.
In Summary
So, 5 days in with a total of 446 miles cycled and over 32,000ft of ascent (Mount Everest is 29,000ft to put it into perspective), my NC500 cycling journey came to an end. Obviously not the end I had wanted but actually I wasn’t disappointed at all. This amazing journey has shaped me into the kind of athlete I had admired from afar but never actually believed I could become. I genuinely went along with every intention of doing half days, convinced that I was incapable of doing the entire thing. I’m sure that I have surprised a lot of people, but most of all I have surprised myself. Without a shadow of a doubt I could not have completed the journey without the unfaltering support from Jon, my fellow cyclists and the amazing crew who looked after us. At every stop we were met with hot drinks and food, fresh water and snacks. Every morning there was a breakfast to come down to and in the evening when there were no food options available we were treated to amazing home made hot meals. There were cheers and encouragement shouted from van windows as they passed and it truly made a world of difference. There were really dark times both mentally and physically but I actually wouldn’t change any of it. That being said, I don’t think I’ll be going back to complete the 54 miles that I was short of any time soon….
